sooo i just found out that the sas postcards aren't really working which is really bad because i just sent one to basically everyone. so just so everyone knows, if you've emailed me...i've written back you just may not have gotten it and i don't have time or internet minutes to resend them through my email account.

artificial civilization

India, how have we forgotten you? Once upon a time there was an industrial revolution and we were consumed by bits and pieces. We were blinded by pollution. Our mothers and fathers, they lost their way among the skyscrapers. They couldn’t see past the glistening gleam of the lights but they never meant to lose their direction. No, that route was a governmental creation. Each mile marked by a commercial enterprise, each turn carved by a little green paper known for its endless elation. They never understood the path they were taking or the lives they were breaking. You have our coca cola and our blue jeans too. Yet when it comes to your children and your women and other recluses, we drown our guilt in labels and excuses. Oh India, I hope we can remember you while we still have the chance. Years of oppression continue and I can feel all of that hate.

India, what about equality? There are only so many lives that can be pulled from a violent ocean. Your women must be free from their gold shackles and released from their jeweled prisons. Even the richest of the rich are as poor as the poorest because they are not permitted inside or out to explore. Bound by a 2,000 year old tradition, their minds and their bodies are limited to exclusion. Morphing and molding and melding and welding- change is the only way to end this undue intrusion. All of these possibilities for societal advancement are forced to float lifeless in limbo- a place that exists somewhere between the earth and sky and was created by an unknown mind and an unseen eye. Oh India, please help us save your women and perpetuate the futures of your children. You can still revise your present to secure your fate.

India, do you know how much you have taught me? If I could hold your pain in the palm of my hand, I would fall into the ground and forever remain under the land. I know now that what I believe is real and what is real is the truth. There was a time when I existed in a world of deception, where I was taught to think that happiness is a right and for everyone life is about perfection. Then I went on a journey with you as my destination. I arrived and soon understood that poverty doesn’t promote delight and starvation ends in a certain and brutal fight. Oh India, you opened my mind and slipped a simple reminder inside. You told me never to forget what I saw and to spread the truth before it’s too late.

the first picture is of one of the first beggars that i saw when i got to india. the look in his eyes was so painful and sad. when i have him a dollar, he looked like he was about to cry. the next is a typical street in the marketplace...capturing the roads with cars is basically impossible because they're really crowded and dangerous. the last is of me leaving the village carrying all of my stuff. it was then that i realized how much i really have in the literal and figurative sense.

an idyllic india

The five days I spent in India encapsulated perhaps the most profound moments of my life. For three days, I lived in a rural village called Dakshina Chitra. The village is a non-profit community service project aimed at promoting and preserving the cultures of the diverse people of India. It was there that I took part in a three day art of living course. The art of living is a world-wide organization that can’t really be described in words. For three days, 25 of us meditated and talked and learned more about each other and ourselves than any of us ever imagined possible. On the first day, we traveled by bus to the village. We stopped at three different ancient temples along the way where we were swarmed by beggars and people trying to sell us small statues and paintings of gods. Some of us gave our food away to the starving children and others bought things we didn’t want so that a family could eat that night. Mostly I just tried to avoid the rabid dogs and random stray goats and cows that roam freely all over India. When we arrived at the village, we had a two hour introduction to mediation and the art of living. Then the women made us a big feast which we ate with our hands off of banana leaves. After dinner, an actress came and told us a story about what life was once like for women there and how some of the ills they suffered are still applicable today. At this point, we were all extremely exhausted so we headed to our rooms. After three hours of staring at the ceiling fan and praying that it would cool the room down even a little bit, I fell asleep. Even though we were some of the lucky few who had netting on the windows, sleep was short lived because at 5am the electricity went off (which means that the fan stopped spinning) and so I sat and listened to a rooster and various other farm animals until 7am when it was time to head back to the yoga pavilion. After two hours of yoga and meditation, we ate breakfast and took a break. Then it was time for sudarshan kriya- a breathing and meditation exercise that is supposed to be a purifying action to get the right view of the self. This one yogi who came to visit with us said [your life is there, you just have to clear the dust off of it] and that’s exactly what I did. It was a really crazy experience that again I can’t explain but basically all of us agreed that we felt like new people by the end. It not only gives you time to just be with yourself, it clears your mind and drastically reduces stress and anxiety. Later that night, we broke up into groups and told one another our life stories. It was so insane to hear such personal and intimate details about the lives of people you see every single day on the ship but have never talked to before. It made me realize how important compassion is because every person has their own story. It was also really shocking to learn how wrong my first impressions and judgments about people were. It’s so important to give everyone a chance, like I’ve said before: we are all just people trying to survive together on this planet. The whole thing really made our group bond a lot and we all hung out that night like we had known each other for years. It was really amazing. The next morning, we got up at 6:30am for some more yoga and meditation and sudarshan kriya later in the day. After lunch, an Indian family came and played us music and we all danced around and sang along. We did another bonding activity that night that I don’t want to try and recount because it wouldn’t do it justice and then we had dinner. By the time dinner was over, we couldn’t believe that it was time to go. We all hugged Ron (who ran the whole thing) and packed up our stuff. We thanked all of the people who worked so hard to make our stay as comfortable as possible, especially the women. I was so sad to leave my little room behind- ants, spiders, lizards and all. We all piled onto the bus and took a moment to appreciate how bad we smelled (three days with no shower in India is like 10 days anywhere else) and how close we all felt. For more about the art of living go to www.artofliving.org. There is a center in NYC on 52^nd and I really think anyone who can should go and check it out.

In sum, these are the philosophies that I walked away with and have already been trying to apply to my life:

*accept people and situations for who and what they are

*don’t look for intentions behind other peoples’ mistakes

*the more you resist something, the more it will persist

*unrealistic expectations reduce joy in our lives

*we all put people above and below us based on assumptions about who they are (don’t do this)

*you are not taking responsibility for yourself when you are complaining

*we want attention from others but we rarely give it to ourselves

*laugh often (this is something I also learned from Desmond Tutu)

*BE HERE NOW

be here now
no other place to be
this whole world keeps changing
come change with me
everything that’s happened
all that’s yet to come
is here inside this moment
it’s the only one

(these song lyrics really describe the way I felt when I was in India and I’m posting them because I’m not yet ready to write creatively about the experience myself)

What be here now means for me is that I can’t live in the past or the future, I have to live in the moment. I need to learn how to not perpetuate my present by telling myself that once this/that happens then I will be happy. There’s no guarantee that I’ll wake up tomorrow so I HAVE to find happiness in each day and every moment of living. I have to help myself because if I don’t, no one else can or will. I need to do what I need to do to find fulfillment in my daily life because that’s the only way I can be happy today and tomorrow and every single day after that.

Most importantly, I learned something about responsibility in the sense that responsibility=power. When we blame others for our circumstances, we become weaker. We also tend to take responsibility for the people who belong to us (family and friends). We need to widen this sense of belonging in a global sense so that we can all start taking responsibility for the whole world. If each person felt responsible for the planet and the existence of each person on it, we would be living in a very different world. So in the spirit of responsibility, I ended up spending the rest of my cash in India for several reasons. I felt so compelled to give money to every single poor person I saw but I knew that this was not a very good idea. Instead, I bought things from small family owned stores and huts in the markets because I figured that gifts I give to everyone at home should be more like an exchange of wealth. Yes, now I have beautiful things to give to all of my friends and family but at the same time, a lot of people are going to be able to eat because of it. I’m all set with trips in Malaysia, our next port of call, and I don’t think I will need to spend any money there so I guess I won’t worry too much about my lack of assets until Vietnam. If I have to go without so that a few people can eat, then I’m okay with that.

On the fourth day, Katie and I explored Chennai. We found a taxi driver to take us around to the different markets and show us the sights. When we got back to the ship, I decided to go out to dinner with some of the kids from the art of living because I already missed them. After dinner, we went to a bar/restaurant called Zara. There were tons of other SAS kids there which would usually bother me but I actually had a really great time talking to everyone. We all decided to head over to this club in a hotel (there are basically no bars in Chennai and everything closes at 11pm except for the hotels) where there was a DJ spinning. We had a really fun night and then 8 of us jumped into one taxi to go home because a lot of people were staying out and it was already 2am. That night my friend Anthony and I ended up talking for a while about our experience at the village (he was there) and about this boy he likes (who had been out with us and he was wearing a skirt which we thought was awesome because he was really embracing the culture- yes, some of the men in India wear skirts and they’re really cool). Anthony is a really amazing person and friend and I’m so glad that we got to spend time together in port because usually everyone is doing different things and it’s hard to coordinate stuff. He’s also from Staten Island believe it or not. The next day we woke up and went to the Indian version of a mall. We bought the rest of our gifts (including some chili powder for those of you who expressed an interest) and then went to go see an Indian movie. Let me just say that going to a movie theater in a foreign country is a very absurd experience. Apparently you’re not allowed to take pictures in or around theaters in India and I had to apologize and beg this woman not to take my camera away. Then, we sat through a three hour movie- none of which we could understand. There’s also intermission during movies in India so we found someone who spoke English to explain what was going on to us. After that, we really enjoyed the rest of it.

On top of everything else, I learned so much about what life is like for women in India. It was mind blowing to drive through the streets after the sun went down and see virtually no women…anywhere. Packs of men spilled out onto the sidewalks from stores and restaurants, but no women. It’s a country run by men in a cultural sense. Even though women have made strides and have gained more freedoms and rights, there is a deep sense of tradition instilled in the way of life in India. This 2,000 old culture has so many unspoken fundamentals that I don’t think will ever change. Poverty also perpetuates this problem in addition to environmental degradation (the pollution is out of control, black filth comes off of your skin when you wash your face). Most people drive motorcycles that look more like mopeds and a few drive small cars. I would say that maybe 20% of these are operated by women, even though the number could be less. When a woman and man are on a bike together, the woman sits on the back sideways, never with one leg on each side. These little things really stood out to me. Especially the fact that the beggars were never just women- they were women with their children. I didn’t see one man begging with a child. The gender roles in India are so clearly defined. This is not to say that there aren’t exceptions, of course there are exceptions. But I think that what got me was the fact that this was the least westernized country that we have visited so far. I felt very aware of the fact that I stood out both in terms of what I was wearing and what I looked like. There’s so much more that I want to write but I can’t because most of it can’t be recalled. Instead, certain moments will remain buried in my mind- there only for me to remember. I can say though that I can’t wait to go back to India.

Oh and I got to drive a rickshaw. Look it up.

the picture on the top left is on the way to the waterfalls. i had to add another parasailing picture for dramatic affect and the last is of me being just being happy.

images

the first picture illustrates my excitement when we found a beautiful place in mauritius. the second picture is of a typical road there and the last if of emily and i parasailing.

mauritius

HIII!! Sorry I’ve been so out of touch. The internet satellite has been malfunctioning and I JUST was able to check my email for the first time since before Port Louis. Here’s a Mauritius update. Dad- I miss you. I’ll try and write you more. I hope you weren’t worried or anything. Mom- thanks for always writing, I look forward to checking my mail because I know I’ll have something from you. ALSO, a note to everyone- please please please do not send me postcards. While it’s free for me to send them to you it takes longer for me to open them if I receive them which takes up internet minutes. Send regular emails. Also, Jo- I can’t believe you haven’t been updating me, do I really have to hear everything from mom?? Pearl- how’s my little Zeb? I have a picture of you guys up on my wall and I miss you every single day. I can’t wait to hold him when I get home. Nicole- what kind of painting do you want? I can’t believe while I’m backpacking Vietnam I have to carry around a giant canvas. Lucky for you I love you a lot so I’ll do my best. Nance and Papa- I miss you both a lot. In fact I talk about you to my friends a lot, they all want some of those cookies. I also got you some really cool stuff in South Africa. Another thing, if anyone has any specific requests for spices and/or other cooking materials from India let me know soon. FRIENDS- I love you all. I will try and write some emails. Here’s what I have until after India:

The first day in Mauritius was really overwhelming. The ship ended up docking a few hours late so my service visit got cancelled. Katie and I decided to just explore Port Louis and it wasn’t a very enriching experience. The streets reminded me of a tangled web of Canal Streets all mashed together. Only these streets were narrower and dirtier than NYC and there was absolutely nothing of interest to buy or see. I went back to the waterfront a little confused and really wondering where the beautiful Mauritius everyone was talking about could be found. The next day Emily and I were determined to make the most out of our last two days. We found a taxi driver who offered to take us an hour away to a beach and show us the sights along the way. Beth, Tristan, Emily, Sashia and I all piled into the taxi. All we had to do was pay him at the end of the day and he would be our guide and driver. He drove us through some of the most breathtaking landscapes that I have ever seen. One minute we were staring up at an enormous mountain and the next we were parked at the top of a hill overlooking thousands of square miles of sugar cane fields. After a little over an hour, we stopped at a beach where we negotiated a speed boat ride over to an island which was supposed to be one of the most beautiful in all of Mauritius. Before I knew it, I was surrounded by a pristine white beach and crystal clear water that was the most striking shade of turquoise.
We immediately ran onto the beach and stood looking out at the water in awe of where we were. It was really shallow so you could walk out really far and still be standing. Since the island was also home to a private resort, there were so many different things you could do. I decided it was time to get over my fear of heights so Emily and I went parasailing. They took us out on this boat to what seemed like the middle of the ocean where there was a floating wood dock. They put the harnesses on us and Emily and I decided to go tandem. I was a tiny bit scared when we took off but the second we were in the air and floating through the sky over the ocean the only feeling I could feel was happiness. It was so peaceful as we flew through the sky- we could see the whole island and the ocean looked so amazing. They dipped us down in the water before taking us back up. Once it was over and we landed I immediately jumped off the dock into the warm tropical water and everyone else followed. I felt like a little kid. People from Mauritius, France and the US were all swimming together, playing games and having fun. We eventually went back to the beach and went right back out on a boat to go tubing. Three of us were on this big tube and the driver really gave us a run for our money. We were laughing so hard we could barely breathe as the boat whipped our tube around crazy turns and pulled us through strong wakes. After that, we went on a tour of the waterfalls. By the time we were all done with our water adventures we were exhausted. We ate lunch in a cabana on the beach. It was suddenly 5pm so we had to head back to shore to meet our taxi driver. It randomly started down pouring so we jumped into one of the boats and made it back in time. The drive home felt like a scene from a movie. We were all crammed into this taxi, sitting all over each other. We were dirty and sandy and the windows were all down, letting the clean warm air pour in. I looked out the window and marveled over how different life is everywhere you go and how amazing living is no matter where you are.
I find myself starting to appreciate what I have more and more. But by what I have I mean everything about my life. I love my family and my house and my college and my friends and my car- I really miss my car. As painful as it will be to see this voyage end, it will be exciting to get back to everything that I love. The thing about semester at sea is that you’re given the chance to appreciate diversity. You see it all firsthand and realize that just because people live differently in different places- it doesn’t mean that one way is better than the other. The United States certainly does have it flaws but it also offers us protection and financial security. It’s the same with your friends. Sure, my friends here are really worldly and smart and understand a lot about life. But so do my friends at home. I find myself thinking about them all the time. Not because I wish I wasn’t here but because I can’t believe how lucky I am to have them. The same goes for my family. The girl next door to me lost her dad when he committed suicide five years ago. It’s funny how you think that your family is strange but then you realize there’s always someone in a worse position than you. Basically what I am saying is that I love life and that I’m LUCKY to have the life that I do. And at not point in Mauritius was this clearer to me than on the last day.

Our last day involved a catamaran, lots of phoenix and a little bit of snorkeling. We had to get up at 8am to make it to the bus on time. Then we drove 45 minutes to get to the catamarans. They split us up onto a bunch of different boats. Most of the boats were really packed but we got lucky and had only about 15 people on ours. We sailed around the ocean for a while and enjoyed the sun and salt. We all hung around the boat, listening to Bob Marley and drinking phoenix (the Mauritian beer) until we got to the snorkeling spot. Mauritius is known for its pristine coral reefs and I was so excited to see them. I was really outraged when I discovered that our boat was anchored to a reef. The first thing they taught us in global studies was that you should never touch the reefs but more importantly, they should NEVER be used at anchors. I know it seems unimportant but reefs are what protect shorelines from waves (let’s recall the tsunamis for a moment). The reefs are diminished and as a result, the beaches and the other forms of life that depend on them are as well. Anyway, I got over it and swam around and saw some really cool fish. The bottom was only about 10 feet down so we all dove down to get really close. The ocean bottom really is astounding. We had a bbq on the boat and then after a few more hours went back to the beach. By the time we got back to the waterfront it was almost time for the ship to leave. When we left, I was sad to see the beach go but thrilled to know that India was right ahead of us. Now it’s only 3 more days until we arrive in Chennai. I absolutely cannot wait.

South Africa=awareness

Before we got to South Africa, I was feeling a little bit down about the port. I wasn’t going on a safari, I wasn’t shark diving or sky diving. But then I remembered that I don’t have to do what everyone else is doing to have a great time. I don’t need very much to have lots of fun. So as soon as we woke up at 6:00am and I headed up to the top deck and saw Table Mountain looming in the distance, I knew just being there was more than enough. I felt ridiculous for even allowing myself to think negatively for even a minute. One thing about SAS is that a lot of the kids live very unrealistic lives. Each port we go to is about doing the craziest and most expensive things to write home about. I’ve found that this is an absurd way to travel. Some of the best experiences I’ve had thus far have been just sitting and talking to locals. When we all get back on the ship and everyone is talking about what they did in port, I listen and more and more I realize that some of us are visiting these countries and some of us are traveling these countries. Travel is more about getting the feel for a place and meeting the people and having an authentic experience. I am traveling. On the first day, I went on a township tour of the former district 6. This is where black and so-called colored people were relocated during apartheid. I have to say that although we had learned about the poverty in Cape Town, nothing could have prepared me for what I saw. It was so different from Brazil in the sense that we were completely up close to it all. We were inside the ghetto and it was a surreal experience- especially because that night I went to the theater to see a play at the University of Cape Town. The building was an architectural treasure and once inside we were met by a massive banquet table full of food and wine. I couldn’t believe the stark difference between the two places I had been in one day. More and more I’m starting to understand how lucky we are. It was a roll of the dice that resulted in my birth in the United States. I am wealthy and privileged by chance, not because I deserve it, much in the same way that the barefoot South African child on the street is there by chance, not because he or she deserves to be starving. These are the things that really started to make sense to me while I was there. Of course Table Mountain was beautiful and the waterfront where we stayed was like a tourist fantasy land, but these things seemed to fade into the background for me as the days passed by.

On the second day Katie, Aja and I all went to Long Street, which is the cool place for young people to work and live (kind of like the east village). We went to the Green Street Market (at the bottom of Long Street) where there were crafts and clothes and jewelry for sale. We all bought a few trinkets for our friends and family and headed up the street to where the music was. Lucky for us we landed in Cape Town just in time for the big street festival. They close the whole street off and there’s music and dancing everywhere for a week. We ended up at this tent where these DJs were spinning. They were promoting an album they’re about to release so we ended up staying and dancing for a while. It was really funny because people were walking by and taking pictures and videos of us (assuming that we were locals). Katie and I both wanted to stay longer but we had the Jazz Safari so we rushed back in time to make it. I’m SO glad that we did because the Jazz Safari was hands down the most amazing thing I’ve done on this voyage. We started off at a famous music school right in the middle of district 6 (it’s the ONLY cultural building in the entire district) where we got to see two new and hot young musicians perform. The bass guitar player was legitimately one of the most talented musicians any of us has ever seen. This ended up making sense because we were soon informed that he plays regularly with Robbie Jansen (the godfather of jazz- he brought African jazz to the United States). Before I even knew what was happening, we were on our way to ROBBIE JANSEN’S HOUSE FOR DINNER. Yes, that’s right: I ate dinner with Robbie Jansen and his family. We ate African food that his wife’s mother cooked for us and Robbie performed on the saxophone. We ate and we drank wine and we TALKED. Now I understand what dinner parties are supposed to be like. I don’t think I’ve ever had such wonderful and thought provoking conversation as I did that night. By the time we left, we were all practically in tears not only because of what we learned about apartheid and racism in Cape Town, but also because we felt so blessed to have gotten the opportunity to have had such a wonderful night. We took pictures and hugged and said our goodbyes but still I miss Robbie and his wife because they reiterated the point I’ve been learning all along. People in other parts of the world communicate and they’re good at it! Everyone in South Africa was so open and eager to hear what I had to say. This was really quite strange for me because I’m so used to people telling me to stop talking or to be quiet. When Robbie’s wife hugged me and said “I’m so glad to have heard about your family and your life. Now I can see why you are such a wonderful and warm person,” I realized that she was right. I am great and I’m only starting to recognize that in myself. And by great I mean that I’m a good person. I’m honest and receptive to unfamiliar places, people and situations- something that many people can’t say. When we got back from dinner, we headed over to Mitchell’s, this really amazing microbrewery that was right where our ship was docked. After some old wobbly (the house beer) and conversation with the Norwegian members of Parliament (who were the most hilarious and rowdy bunch of politicians) some SAS kids convinced Katie and I to head back over to Long Street. Since the music was on the street and free we decided we would even though it was starting to rain. We spent the rest of the night dancing in the streets as the rain poured down.

Since we were so exhausted from the night before and still smitten about our Robbie Jansen encounter, we decided to have a chill out day on Sunday. We went to this giant flea market at the rugby stadium where we ended up meeting these brothers from Ghana who own a drum store. Every Sunday all of the artists and other crafters head down to the market to put their work on display. I knew I wanted to buy drums ever since Brazil but I hadn’t found any that were right. Then I found this tent full of the most beautiful drums I have ever seen. They were all hand-crafted and carved and I couldn’t help but ask if I could try one out. The next thing I knew, I was in a drum circle playing beats and rhythms that I had no idea I was capable of playing. It was so exciting because not only was I learning so easily, it sounded so good. All of these American tourists were stopping to watch and listen and they were all buying drums! After about an hour in the drum circle, Katie and I both bought the drums we had been playing. We headed back to the waterfront because the two young musicians we saw the night before were playing with Robbie at a local jazz club. What was so crazy about this was that I really didn’t think things could get any better but just like they always seem to do on this trip- they did get better. A huge group of us went to dinner at the jazz club. As we relaxed and listened to the music, I realized that happiness is so simple and attainable. Like I said before, it doesn’t take much to make a person happy- we just need to find the little things that do. After three gratifying sets, we headed out to Mitchell’s for some drinks. I ventured upstairs and got to see the brewery. I learned that it takes a lot of space and work to make beer. I felt so sad that dad couldn’t be there to see Mitchell’s. He would have loved everything about it and the beer was so amazing. I couldn’t figure out a way to send beer to dad and everyone was really sick of hearing me talk about how much he would have loved it so we all went home for some much needed sleep.

By Monday we were all starting to feel the effects of exhaustion. The problem with being in port is that sleeping feels like a huge waste of time. There is so much you could be doing rather than sleeping. Katie and I hung out at the waterfront and just enjoyed the sunshine and the people. That night we hung out with Emily since she was leaving for her safari the next morning. We went to this place right on the water and sat outside for a long time just talking and appreciating each others company. After dinner I went home to sleep since I had to get up for a trip in the morning. The next day I went on my Brown Paper Studio Trip. It was led by my professor (for my class with the same name) and it was I think one of the most eye-opening experiences I have had thus far. First we went to a community center where one doctor has single-handedly organized an educational program for the youth in Cape Town. They teach the students basic skills and eventually enable them to open small businesses. He said that watching a hardcore gangster sit down with a needle and thread and complete a sewing project is the reward for all of his work. His students learn to be proud and have confidence in the things that they create since many of them are accomplishing things for the first time. We then headed over to an elementary school where we got to see Brown Paper Studio in action. My professor created this theater project when she was living in Johannesburg a few years back. It’s supposed to break down the barriers of communication and insecurity between people. For a while I really didn’t get the point but when I saw it in the school, I realized what a huge thing she has done. It keeps the kids in school because they actually have fun and want to learn. For a school where classrooms are overcrowded and the dropout rate is so high, this is an amazing thing for teachers and administrators. We ended the day at University of the Western Cape where we met the acting troupe who keeps Brown Paper going while Judy is away. They were all so talented and smart and I felt so lucky to get to meet all of them, including Judy’s son who studies there. After the trip, we went back and met one of our new South African friends at a restaurant where he is the manager. We hung out there and then went to a really neat little local place called Buena Vista. I ended up talking to this big group of young people who were all living in Cape Town. Some of them were locals and some of them were there just working but I was AMAZED at how eager (once again) they were to hear about our trip and the United States.

The next day was my birthday. Katie and I went on the Cape Flats Nature Project trip. We visited a nature reserve which is kept going by a small grass roots organization. Its focus is to provide locals with jobs while at the same time promoting environmental awareness to young people. We then drove through another one of the districts and learned more about how the shacks there are built and the desperate conditions many people are faced with. Our last stop was the famous Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. I immediately felt like I was in an enchanted forest. When I say that this was the most beautiful place I have ever been, I am not exaggerating. It was a giant sprawling garden that backed up to Table Mountain. We spent the rest of the day just getting lost on the crazy paths. A lot of the gardens were interactive like the perfume garden where you could just walk around and smell all of the different plants. There was also a useful plants section where there were herbs and remedies for everything from the common cold to the symptoms of AIDS and TB. After that we went back to the waterfront where ten of us went out to dinner for my birthday. It was such a nice night because everyone really made an effort to make it special. I was astounded at how much these people I’ve only just met really cared about making me happy. Everyone ordered tons of wine and they even bought a birthday cake earlier in the day that they had to restaurant hold until we got there. No one would let me pay for a thing and everyone gave me really nice cards and little meaningful gifts. We ended up splitting up after dinner and Katie and I headed to Long Street. We danced to some electronic music at this club called Fiction but that got boring so we ended up at Zula. All of the clubs and bars are really cool because they’re on top of the stores so each of them overlooks the street with a huge balcony. We danced there for the rest of the night. On the last day I was so exhausted that all I could do was just wander around and say my own goodbyes to Cape Town. I was really sad about leaving and subsequently was in a very odd mood all day. Around 5pm I ran into my friend Chris and we decided to spend our last few hours outside at the waterfront. Three hours later and three bottle of wine later I realized how much better I felt after talking about everything that I was feeling. Something that causes so many of us on this trip to bond is that we can understand where everyone is coming from. He knew exactly what I was talking about. We’re all experiencing the same things and are feeling the same way. These last few days have been really busy. Everyone is all roughed up in one way or another from Cape Town (exhaustion, illness etc…) so we’re all just trying to get our work done before we land in Mauritius, an island paradise. I can’t wait to see what this next place has in store for me. I’m excited to apply my new outlook on humanity to my experiences in Mauritius- this new outlook being that people are people. Skin color means nothing and any form of class or status is a social construction and when you really see it first-hand you realize how absurd the very idea of race is. I never realized until I was in South Africa how programmed we are to be unconsciously aware of race and stereotypes which is just absolutely ridiculous. We are very unaware of how easily we allow stereotypes affect our opinions and behavior. We are all PEOPLE. Nothing else, nothing more.

this is the sun rising over table mountain in south africa. it was one of the most beautiful things i have ever seen. the other is of my friend emily and i. as you can see, we are very happy to see land after 8 straight days at sea.

the first picture is of katie and i about to leave for carnaval and the second is of the beach in puerto rico. the last picture is katie and cristal after a highly inappropriate cake fight on the deck. i put this one up because it's the last picture i have of cristal before she shaved her head on nepture day. so whenever you see a girl with a shaved head in my pictures, you know it's her. more updates on march 9 after south africa.

land in the morning

With Brazil now a memory, I am preparing myself for the cultural explosion of South Africa. We arrive in port early tomorrow morning, just in time for what I’m told is the most beautiful sunrise we will see our entire trip. Life is crazy right now. I’m learning so much every second of every day. Desmond Tutu, Archbishop of South Africa and fellow voyager led our global studies lecture for the past two mornings. Just being in this man’s presence is enough to get your blood going. Not only was I sitting about four feet away from him (we got up two hours early and camped out in the union to get those seats), he spent an hour and a half addressing us! He spoke to me, the kids sitting next to me and the kids still passed out in bed on the decks below us. The archbishop praised our generation for what we have accomplished so far and the potential that we have to do more in the future. Praise like this is a rare commodity these days. I have the speech on tape (my arm is still recovering). All I can say is that I was moved to tears. For a man who has fought for freedom his entire life, he is shockingly at peace with himself and with the world. He spent years watching those around him die so that Apartheid could end and freedom could define the next generation, yet there is an endearing tranquility to his disposition. There is no anger inside of him. So, as if all of this wasn’t enough, my professor in sustainable communities had us do a meditation exercise today that got us to connect our inner selves with our external lives. He discussed the concept of Atman Brahman- when you are one with yourself and one with the outside world and you come to the realization that they’re interconnected and one in the same. I realized for the first time that it all makes so much sense. Humans are inherently connected to nature. The Native Americans called the earth their mother and believed that they came from the family of humanity. People have lost this connection and therefore there is a gaping hole in the structure of existence. We need to reconnect with our planet and try to never forget what the important things in life are. I now understand that for the earth to reach a level of sustainability not only in terms of the environment, but also in terms of relationships, a drastic wave of awareness must wash over society. And even though I might be just a drop of water, I feel lucky to be part of the next generation that will hopefully wake up and change humanity forever.

The first picture is of me and katie. I am in the background trying to learn a crazy new yoga pose so I can enhance my skills before India. Desmond is in the middle of the second picture with the yellow shirt. The third one is a picture of some great older locals during carnaval. The last one is of the group before trio electrico. Katie and I are in the middle sitting on the ground in the front.